Friday 19 September 2008


18 09 07

Calabria is hot, dry and dusty
Autostrada in this heat like an oven
the land is a tinderbox
This drive is longer than you think
workmen salute the car

At Reggio the sea has an inviting coolness about it
Sicilia seems to be cooler
clouds gathering over Etna
I head for Taormina, drive through/past the tourists
At last I am on the S120, heading inland - a mini epic
all curves
Mount Etna looms, dark clouds gathering
distant rivulets of steam rising near its summit
the mountain does it again, this time thunder and lightening
Hood up (that cosy Morgan thing)
It pours, roads to rivers
As I drive into the hills I see the air through the air through the rain
After Randoza the sun returns and the wet roads turn to silver
S120 is great,
out into the mountains,
the land is orange ochre
this land astounds me

to Cesaro, twisted, curved and sometimes the road just runs out into gravel
the soil is grey green blue grey
this is somewhere out from anywhere
towns perched on mountains, medieval, fortified
Towns isolated
No apparent hotels, squares full of locals
the inside of sicilia
Wallace Arnold and MacDonalds don’t enter in to it

weave on
the sun starting to sink over the mountains
the kilometre number on the sign reads S120 96 and counting down
A long drive ahead, into the red glow
fields as gold
Sicilia is a place full of hidden envelopes
These towns seem fortified against each other
They seem equally inpeneratable
Troina to Nicosia to Gangi, mountains in a soft sienna light stretching on
Ill bella rises to the challenge
Driving part of the Targe Floria now
great corners, sits round the curves like a glove
I think my car likes Sicilia

Decide to head for Cefalu on the North coast
take the high road across the Madonie mountains into the twilight
up up into the pine forests and cooling air
then at the dark top
out of nowhere
out of nothing
a hotel
Swiss style with room and food
Twin Peaks comes to mind
Dutch French Italian English
A fox comes into the dining room
Daisy and Milo would love that

Very tasty fig liqueur

Quiet cool air
sound of cattle bells in the distance like breezy chimes.
Cicadas sing out
Mountains have a presence at night
they insinuate themselves upon you
with in you

Sleep amongst the knotty pine

rodents in the roof

here, far away from somewhere


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